Flyer-Spun I Cap-Spun
I Ring-Spun I Cross-Bred
I Botany Worsted I Melange
I Yarn-Dyed
A typical worsted yarn is made from long lustrous
wool from which the short fibres are removed by combing, and all
the processes tend to straighten the fibres. Such a yarn, therefore,
is composed of fibres that do not vary extremely in length and
are laid as straight and parallel as possible.
The thread is smooth and lustrous and as such
has reduced felting properties. A typical worsted yarn is practically
opposite in structure and properties to a typical woollen yarn,
but this is not due to the difference in the raw material so much
as to the difference in the processes through which the fibres pass.
Flyer-spun worsted yarn
In flyer spinning the fibres are better controlled than in any other
system, so that a smoother thread is produced. The method is the
most suitable for promoting the brightness of lustrous wool and
wool hairs, and for obtaining a smooth yarn from coarse cross-bred
wools.
Cap-spun worsted yarn
Cap spinning
is much more productive than flyer spinning, and is very
suitable for botany and fine cross-bred wools. The system tends
to produce a thread with a large amount of fibre projecting from
the surface, and is, therefore, not suitable for either lustrous
or strong cross-bred wools.
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Ring-spun worsted yarn
Ring spinning is employed only to a limited extent
for worsted yarn, but is a very suitable system for the finest
botany threads. The fibres are under better control than in cap
spinning, so that the yarn is not so wild and hairy.
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Cross-bred yarns
Cross-bred yarns range from fine to low cross-bred,
the former being spun from Australian and New Zealand wools. (46s
to 58s quality) and used for coatings, dress fabrics, and fine
hosiers. Medium cross-bred yarns are spun from wool of about 40s
to 46s quality, and are used for serge and other cloths which
require a firm, crisp feel. Low cross-bred yarns are spun from
wools below 40s quality, and are fairly lustrous. The finer cross-bred
wools are cap spun, but the lower qualities may be flyer spun,
in order that the fibres will be sufficiently controlled.
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Botany worsted yarn
Made of fine merino wool (60s quality or finer is
termed Botany), and is a fuller, softer, and denser thread than
typical worsted yarn. For fine counts the processes are carding,
Holden-combing, open drawing, and cap spinning. Botany worsted
is used for the best qualities of costumes, dress fabrics, suitings,
lining, shirtings , etc.
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Melange Yarn (French term - Vigoreaux)
A coloured mixture worsted yarn, usually made of
long, lustrous wool, the colours in which are printed on the top
or combed sliver in the form of bars of colour. The subsequent
processes of drawing and spinning cause the different colours
to be thoroughly intermingled, but as each fibre may be variously
coloured throughout its length, a 'melange' mixture differs in
appearance from an ordinary fibre mixture in which each fibre
is all one colour.
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Yarn dyed
Yarn which has been dyed after the processes of
spinning, doubling, etc., have been completed. The threads are
reeled into hank form, or made into ball warps in readiness for
dyeing, or wound into packages and dyed in that form.
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Holland &
Sherry Textile Guide |
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