Saxony I Cap-Spun
I Cheviot I Lustre
I Shoddy I Ring-Spun
Woollen yarns vary chiefly according
to the kind of wool that is used, which may range from the finest
qualities of short merino, through cross-bred and medium wools,
to shoddies and wastes which are so short and low in quality that
a small quantity of a longer fibre, e.g. cotton, has to be introduced
to enable the material to spin. Woollen yarn is carded as opposed
to a worsted yarn which is combed.
Woollen yarn consists of short, fine wool, and contains
all the varying lengths of the fibres, which are indiscriminately
mixed together by the carding process so that they lie across
each other in all directions. A fibrous, compact, but rather uneven
thread is produced, which has excellent felting properties, and
when dyed takes on a soft, deep and rich colour due to light being
absorbed rather than reflected.
Saxony Woollen Yarn
A typical thread, made from fine
Merino wool, and used for the finest and best woollen textures.
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Cheviot Woollen Yarn
Made from sound and strong cross-bred and medium
wools, and used for cheviot tweeds and carpets.
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Ring-spun worsted yarn
Ring spinning is employed only to a limited extent
for worsted yarn, but is a very suitable system for the finest
botany threads. The fibres are under better control than in cap
spinning, so that the yarn is not so wild and hairy.
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Lustre Woollen Yarn
Similar to cheviot yarn, but is made from
lustrous medium wool, and is used for rugs and similar pile fabrics.
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Shoddy Yarn
Made from re-manufactured wool and wastes,
and frequently contains a proportion of cotton. Shoddy yarn is
not used in Holland & Sherry cloths.
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Ring-Spun Woollen
Yarns
Spun on the continuous system from condenser
bobbins, with a special arrangement of the drafting rollers to
ensure uniform drafting of the long and short fibres, and an attachment
giving a vibratory movement to the threads to impart fullness
to the yarn. The thread is satisfactory, but is somewhat inferior
in softness, fullness, and felting property to a mule-spun woollen
yarn.
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Holland &
Sherry Textile Guide
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