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Bedford Cords I Blazer
Cloth I Broadcloth Plain
Super I Cheviot Cloth I Covert
Coating Warp-face fabrics in which rounded cord effects are formed longitudinally. Very broad cord effects can be made firmer by interweaving the picks on the underside with the wadding ends in plain order. A wool flannel somewhat heavily milled and raised
and finished with a fibrous surface. One of the oldest types of woollen cloths, made
from fine merino wool in plain weave, heavily milled and finished
with a dress face. For 140 cm finished width it is woven about
225 cm in the loom (hence the origin of the term 'broad'). A woollen texture made from rather thick and rough
yarns, which are spun from medium wools of the Cheviot and cross-bred
type. The cloth is only lightly milled and raised, and after finishing
it has a crisp feel and somewhat open structure. Generally a rough
fibrous surface is formed, through which the weave is more or
less clearly seen, while brightness of colour is a distinct feature. A light, warp-face, overcoating cloth which usually
has two distinguishing features i.e., the union in the warp of
coloured and white fibres and the formation of a fine, clear,
steep twill effect. Olive, fawn, brown, and grey are chiefly combined
with the white in the warp, and the weft is generally dyed to
correspond with the warp colour. Have an irregular or broken surface appearance.
In most crepe fabrics, however, the weave is plain and the effect
is due to the use of very hard twisted threads (see Crepe yarns),
either in the weft, or warp, or both weft and warp, which, when
the cloth is subjected to a wet finishing process, cause the latter
to shrink considerably - from 12 to 20 per cent -in the direction
of the crepe threads. As a rule the crepe threads are introduced
in equal proportions of right and left twist, and as the cloth
shrinks the differently twisted threads tend to untwist in opposite
directions, so that an irregular surface results. The textures
are usually dyed in the piece, and, in order that the right and
left twist yarns may be distinguished during the processes of
manufacture, one of them is tinted in a fugitive colour, while
weft yarns are wound (in opposite directions) on to differently
coloured pirns. Crepe fabrics are light and soft to the touch,
and relatively fine yarns are used with only sufficient threads
per inch in the loom as will contribute to the proper shrinking
of the cloth. Plain or twill woven cloth with a very soft handle,
which makes it particularly suitable for being worn next to the
skin. The yarns are mostly woollen spun, and medium English wools
and cross-breds are used for ordinary qualities and merino for
fine textures. The cloths are milled and raised, and are usually
finished with a fibrous face. Gabardine - a fine steep twill effect (approximately
60 degrees) on account of the predominance of the warp over the
weft, but lower qualities are sometimes made in 2-and-1 twill.
(2+1 Twill also produces a lighter weight gabardine)
Glen check (or Prince of Wales Check) The full name is 'Glen Urquhart check', and is applied
to a colour and weave check effect in which 2-and-2 twill weave
is used in conjunction with a compound of 2-and-2 with 4-and-4
colouring. Made famous by the Prince of Wales (later to become
King Edward VIII before his abdication). A 2-and-2 twill fabric woven in three colours
in warp and weft, arranged so that the solid squares formed by
two of the colours are separately surrounded by the third colour,
as for example, 4 dark, 4 light, 4 mid, 4 light; or 6 dark, 6
mid, 6 light, 6 mid. Top In a true hairline the warp and weft colours are
alike, and each colour of warp is intersected only by its own
colour of weft, so that perfectly solid lines of colour are formed.
The styles are produced in simple weaves and in double plain and
double twill weaves. The term hairline is now applied rather generally
to any fine, solid coloured, stripe effect. A rough, fibrous, woollen tweed, understood to be
spun, woven, dyed, and finished in Harris, Lewis and other islands
of the Outer Hebrides. A broken twill weave giving a zig zag effect, produced
by alternating the direction of the twill. Same as a Chevron weave. A woollen cloth which is heavily milled, so as to
form a firm foundation, and the fibres are drawn on to the surface
by raising, but in the cropping process, which follows, the fibres
are reduced in length so as to form a short, dense, non-lustrous
pile. Contraction from woven to finished cloth is normally 35
per cent in width and 25 per cent in length. A very strong, tough, smooth and leathery fustian
cloth. A soft-handling woollen cloth, mostly in fancy colourings,
which is heavily milled and finished with a fibrous face through
which the weave and structure show indistinctly A shaded colour effect produced by employing a number
of tones of a colour, and arranging them a few threads of each
in order from light to dark. Ombre patterns are also formed in
different colours. Structure - 1 up 1 down - simplest of all weave
structures. Most extensively used of any fabric, and includes
structures in which there is the greatest variety in the relative
counts of warp and weft, and ends and picks per unit space. In
many cloths, such as muslins, lawns, cambrics, and voiles the
warp and weft are similar, and there are about the same number
of ends and picks per cm, whereas in poplins, bengalines, cords,
etc., there is great diversity in the warp and weft yarns and
ends and picks per cm (see Rib cloths and poplin). Composed of bending threads in one direction and
comparatively straight threads in the other direction with many
more of the former threads per unit space than of the latter.
The threads do not support each other the same as in ordinary
cloths, and when a fabric is subjected to strain in the direction
of the straight threads the bending threads tend to slide somewhat
readily along the former if the cloth is not very well constructed.
Broad rib effects are produced by employing warp and weft rib
weaves, but the majority of rib clothes are woven in plain weave. Similar in weave, colouring, and finish on both
sides, so that either can be used as the right side. A fabric made in 5-thread weft face sateen. Good
even yarns are required. When the direction of the sateen twill
is the same as that of the twist of the weft the weave has an
irregular appearance, and the term broken sateen is applied to
the cloth. The warp is much finer and more closely set than
the weft, and the latter, which only shows on the under side,
is frequently composed of cotton. Double faced satins are made
on the reversible warp backed principle, with one side differently
coloured from the other. Woollen textures made from Saxony or merino quality
of wool (as distinct from Cheviot cloths, which are made from
coarser wool) with a fine smooth surface, soft handle, and compact
structure. The fabrics are used for costumes, trouserings, suitings,
and overcoatings, and are made single, backed, and double according
to the weight and fineness of appearance required, and are finished
clear or with varying degrees of fibre on the surface. Patterns of a somewhat indistinct or elusive character
produced in cloths that are in the same shade or colour throughout.
The effects generally run in stripe form, although similar styles
can be obtained in the direction of the weft. A fabric woven in contrasting colours of warp and
weft which are about equal on the surface, so that the cloth appears
to be one colour form one point of view and the other colour from
another point of view. Scottish tartans are 2-and-2 twill woollen or worsted
cloths woven in more or less elaborately coloured check designs,
and worn as shawls or plaids over the shoulder, and as kilts.
Each Highland clan has its own particular design, and many of
the clans have more than one tartan - e.g., hunting, mourning,
or dress tartan. A design may be varied as regards the size of
the repeat, but the different sections of the pattern require
to be exactly in proportion. The cloth is made with an exact number
of repeats of the colour scheme across the width of 67/70 cm,
and the same tartan design may have, say, 4,6 or 8 repeats, the
smaller sizes being used for boys' or youths' wear, and the largest
for men's wear. Top A piece dyed worsted serge costume cloth woven in a warp face weave forming fine steep twill lines. The term is also applied to a worsted weft and cotton warp cloth with a weft face in which fine flat twill lines are formed, and to a silk warp and cotton weft cloth, woven plain, and showing fine horizontal rib lines. Top Term applied to a wide range of woollen cloths used
for suiting's, and over-coatings, which include on the one hand
all kinds of cheviot fabrics, and, on the other hand, fine Saxony
textures, which are finished with either a dress face or a clear
finish. Originally a corruption of the Scottish term tweel, it
is now associated with the famous River Tweed in the Borders of
Scotland, which flows through Peebles, the home town of Holland
& Sherry). Identified by the diagonal lines in the fabric.
Most twills are 45 degrees in angle. Right-handed twilled clothes
include Cavalry twill, Covert, Gabardine, Serge, Tricotine, Tweed
and Whipcord. Left handed twills include denim, some drill and
ticking fabrics. Similar to covert coating, but in addition to showing
a mixture effect with a clear finish, the cloth is sometimes made
in solid colour, piece dyed, and finished with a fibrous surface.
The term venetian is also applied to a lustrous warp satin cotton
fabric. Contrasting coloured warp and weft. Show prominent steep twill lines, the warp lines
forming ridges, and the weft lines furrows. The direction of the
twill should be opposite to the direction of the warp twist. |
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Fabric Weaver and Cloth Merchant of Distinction Head Office & Warehouse - Venlaw Road, Peebles, Scottish Borders. EH45 8RN Tel: +44 (0) 1721 720101 Fax: +44 (0) 1721 722309 |
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